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Ingredient FAQ's

Bioactive Living Ingredients - here is the scoop



WHAT WE STAND FOR


Direct link to website that discusses EU INGREDIENT SAFETY EU COSMETICS and a deep dive into EU COSMETIC REGULATIONS in 2023 since all are products are made in GERMANY: https://us.olivetreepeople.com/pages/what-do-we-stand-for


WATERLESS STATEMENT


We never put water first, as is the case with traditional emulsions. Our emulsion builds up entirely without water, which is why the Olea Europaea cell elixir comes first for us. However, water can be contained elsewhere in the INCI’s as a breakdown from other ingredients of the respective product beyond the emulsion base.


[NOTE: This statement is listed on the website under every single product]


In Europe, all cosmetics must include on their label, without exception, the ingredients list. This is known as the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). It is a set of rules established in the early1970s by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) to clearly regulate the way to denominate the different ingredients that make up the product. To date, this list has become an international standard with more than 16,000 registered ingredients. 


When submitting a product under the European Commission Regulations, the product must be reviewed by an expert. There are many different experts on the panel and you are not always given the same expert to review your product and, because of this, the INCI can present differently for different products and some ingredients names may be listed interchangeably (for example: aqua / water / eau).  


For example, here at Olive Tree People, while we don't add water to our products, you can still find it listed on the INCI as aqua or water as a breakdown from other ingredients beyond the emulsion base. Different experts that review our products, may list this in different places on the INCI and that is why it varies from product to product. 


Further, the ingredients on the INCI are ordered according to their proportion (from highest to lowest), although those ingredients with a proportion lower than 1% may be mentioned without a particular order. Thus, there is a greater amount of the first ingredient than the last ones (for instance, the first ingredient may constitute 70% of the final formula while the second can be only 10%). 


You can read more about Cosmetic Ingredient Review Procedures & Support to the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety here: 



OLIVE LEAF EXTRACT AS A NATURAL PRESERVATIVE:

Olive leaf extract is a potent source of polyphenols having antioxidant and antimicrobial properties capable of inhibiting microbial growth.




FRAGRANCE STATEMENT 


If fragrances are also used, then only a composition of essential oils is used. According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation, these are then summarized under the generic term perfume in the INCIS. Plant allergens such as linalool have to be shown separately according to the EU Cosmetics Regulation. In principle, OLIVEDA avoids all kinds of synthetic fragrances.


[NOTE: This statement is listed on the website under every single product]



PESTICIDES + CHEMICALS STATMENT


Mayoress of Arroyomolinos de Leon has certified that Olive Tree People’s trees in Andalusia, Spain are located in a government protected natural park where not a single chemical has been spread or fed to these trees for over 60 years


THIRD PARTY TESTING


As Americans that care and look into these types of things, we know the US (FDA) does not have standards in this regard. However, there are certain types of testing required for cosmetic products in the EU before products can go to market. There are three (3) main types of testing for cosmetic products in the EU and it is very time consuming – the basic tests are as follows:


  1. Stability and Compatibility tests

  2. Challenge test (Preservative Efficacy Test, abbreviated PET)

  3. Microbiological Quality Analysis


These are the EU governing articles for cosmetics, of importance Article 16, Article 17, and Annex I shows an example of the required Cosmetic Product Safety Report: 


EUROPENA UNION COSMETIC REGULATIONS (EU vs. US)


EU VS. US WHAT’S THE MAJOR DIFFERENCE? The spirit of the law:


  • The EU is a protective society: the key words are safety and certainty. The EU is very directive (or managerial) and leaves very little room to manufacturers by establishing a lot of restrictions/prohibitions.


  • The US is a litigious society: the key words are freedom and responsibility. It is of course also forbidden to put a dangerous product in the US market and it is very important to make sure that everything is OK before selling them on the US market. But there is indeed a lot more freedom to demonstrate the safety of an ingredient.


Lets take a deep dive into EU cosmetic regulation in 2023!


This is a very important conversation because informed American consumer reads their labels. Many do this because they are aware that the FDA in the USA only restricts a few ingredients (33) from cosmetic formulations and has no standards in place for the term fragrance which is used as a loophole to avoid customer disclosure of potentially toxic ingredients and potential allergens. This is not the case in Europe and this is an important distinction between us and American made cosmetic products and something we need to understand completely when presenting our products.


Olive Tree People products are formulated, manufactured, and sold in Europe meaning that they must undergo the EU cosmetic regulation processes for approval. They must also abide by European Safety Standards for Cosmetics.


Europe has strict safety standards outlawing 4041 ingredients (ANNEX II) as of 2023 from their cosmetic formulations. They also apply maximum concentration requirements for 661 ingredients (ANNEX III) even essential oils. The most exciting thing about the EU Cosmetic Regulation is that these safety standards and ingredient regulations apply to all ingredients including those found under the term fragrance, aroma, and perfume in European products. In Europe as opposed to the USA products must subscribe to these sets of standards set forth by the Cosmetic Products Regulation under the EUCLEF - ECHA and disclose a full report of ingredients including fragrance composition to the EUCLEF - ECHA.


Any cosmetic product placed on the EU market must comply with the provisions of EU Regulation 1223/2009 (the Cosmetics Regulation),2 which includes ingredients used in fragrances.


This means that 0 ingredients found under ANNEX II (4041 banned ingredients) may not be used in the formulation and that includes “fragrance, aroma, or perfume.” This also means any ingredients of ANNEX III (the 661 regulated substances with a maximum concentration limit) must be listed on the packaging separately and cannot fall under the term “Parfum, Aroma, or Fragrance” on the label even if that ingredient is a part of the composition of the scent itself.


for example: fragrance is considered a trade secret in both the US and EU allowing the brand to have uniqueness against its competitors. However, there is a HUGE distinguishable difference between the EU EUCLEF and the USA's FDA as it pertains to fragrance. In the United States where you see "fragrance, perfume, or aroma" the brand is not required to disclose those ingredients to consumers OR to the regulatory agency The FDA. There are no safety assessments performed and no submission for approval required to be distributed to consumers. In the United States there is no one who knows the contents of the fragrance formulation other than the manufacturer and formulator. In Europe all ingredients including those found in "fragrance. aroma, or parfume" must abide by both ANNEX II (banned ingredients) and ANNEX III(regulated ingredients) and all ingredients found in the formulation including the ingredients comprising the "fragrance, aroma, or parfume" must abide by those standards, be listed in full, submitted for a Safety Assessment, and then submitted for approval by the EUCLEF- ECHA.



11/30/09 REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL on cosmetic products [current consolidated version from 01/12/2023]: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20231201




THE EU RESTRICTED ALLERGENS LIST: 


This ingredient list is ON TOP of the "EU NEVER LIST" this "RESTRICTED ALLERGENS LIST" includes many essential oils. These ingredients can be used, but they have maximum concentration requirements and they must be listed separately on the label (outside of the term "fragrance)". This is to provide transparency to consumers and allow companies to safetly preserve unique scents.


EU FRAGRANCE OVERVIEW:


ORGANIC LABELING IN THE EU: 


WHAT DOES BIOACTIVE MEAN?


bioactive (adj): having an effect on a living organism


Every living bioactive plant substance carries its uniqueness in the form of, for example, color, smell/scent, taste or effectiveness. If only one of these components is changed, for example by industrial processing - and thus in its individuality - it is robbed of its magic and effective power, its soul. In nature, there are no bioactive and thus soulful plant substances that do not have a smell/scent. 


Thus, cold-pressed bioactive oils can smell of freshly cut grass or of apples, almonds and orange blossoms. Herbs carry not only the smell/scent of rosemary, lavender or sage, but also the smells/scents of their environment and the aromas and energy of the earth. The infinite diversity of nature.


These ingredients can provide a wide range of benefits, such as promoting cell growth, reducing inflammation, improving hydration, and supporting the skin's natural barrier function.


All Olive Tree People brands are bioactive and free of any synthetic fragrances.


Why do some of the serum colors differ? 

  • Thomas has indicated that because they are bioactive and not being refined this can result in varying color of final product.

  • Organic ingredients can change color when they come in contact with oxygen. 

How do we process oils? 

  • Gentle mechanical cold-pressing that never exceeds 115 degrees to ensure the ingredients remain bioactive. 


SKIN PURGING 


Skin purging is a process that occurs when you start using a new skincare product (especially a product as concentrated and bioactive as OTP) that increases the rate of cellular turnover. Because your skin cells are turning over more quickly, lingering breakouts that might’ve taken weeks (or even months) to surface all appear at once. This means that, before it gets better, your breakouts can actually get worse. While it may seem unfair, if you stick with the new product and don’t get discouraged through the purging process, you’ll be rewarded with smooth, clear skin.


The most common types of breakouts people experience when their skin purges are whiteheads and pustules. They’re similar in that they both develop pus as a result of infection. However, pustules tend to be more red and inflamed. If you’re prone to hormonal acne, you may also develop cystic blemishes in the purging process.


How Long Does Skin Purging Last? This is a really difficult question to answer because there is no definitive time period. The length of time your skin purges can depend on a number of things, including how many clogged pores you have to begin with and the strength of the product you started using. However, anywhere from 2-6 weeks is a good rule of thumb since it takes the skin about a month to fully turn over. With that being said, if you have a lot of closed comedones (aka clogged pores), it could potentially take longer for your skin to clear up. Think of it this way… Those clogged pores are full of hardened oil, dirt, and debris, and all of that needs to go somewhere, which is why many of them will surface as whiteheads. This is your skin’s way of “resolving” them.


What Kind of Skincare Ingredients Can Cause Purging? Ironically, the ingredients that typically cause skin purging are also the ones that are best for treating breakouts (weird, right?). As mentioned before, these are the ingredients that encourage skin cells to turn over in a faster, more efficient way.


Exfoliating Acids: Exfoliating acids remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. They can help achieve smooth, clear, and even-toned skin. However, it’s not uncommon to experience some initial breakouts when you begin using them. While any type of exfoliating acid can cause purging, salicylic acid (BHA) is often the main culprit. It’s oil-soluble, so it can penetrate into the pore lining to help loosen hardened oil and clear out clogged pores (think of it as a deep clean for your pores!). While this is great for addressing breakouts, it can definitely lead to purging since all of the gunk in your pores is being pushed out.


As frustrating as it may be, an initial purging period is considered normal when it comes to exfoliating acids—but it’ll all be worth it once you get through to the other side!


What to Do if You Suspect Exfoliating Acids Are Causing Purging? If you suspect an exfoliating acid is causing your skin to purge, stay the course and give it time. Purging from exfoliating acids should start to normalize anywhere from 2-6 weeks time. During that time period, you can try cutting back on the frequency of use. This will slow down the purging process so you aren’t getting as many new blemishes all at once. However, this will also extend the duration of the purge overall. 


Retinol: Vitamin A, the active ingredient found in retinol based products, also works to increase cell turnover. But unlike exfoliating acids, which perform this function on the surface, vitamin A works deep within the skin’s layers. So, if you have clogged pores, using a vitamin A product can bring them to the surface, resulting in temporary skin purging. What’s more, is that retinol can initially make breakouts worse by drying out the skin. Dry skin can trap oil in the pores, resulting in even more breakouts while the skin adjusts.


What to Do if You Suspect Retinol or Retinoids Are Causing Purging? When it comes to retinol, it’s super important to introduce them into your routine slowly. Otherwise, you could easily end up with a lot of irritation, which can actually exacerbate breakouts. Because of this, a skin purge from retinol can last upwards of 4-8 weeks. Stay the course and see how it plays out. Vitamin A is a very active ingredient, and in order to achieve positive, long-term change in the skin, you have to be patient!


What’s The Difference Between Purging and Breakouts? To distinguish between purging and breakouts, look at the type of product you started using. If it contains one of the ingredients mentioned above, your skin could be purging. Also, consider the location of your breakouts. Are most of your breakouts in the same areas that they usually appear? If so, your skin could be purging. Finally, keep track of how long it takes your breakouts to diminish. If an an OTP product isn’t improving your skin after 2-6 weeks, you may want to stop using it and regroup. When in doubt, it’s always best to consult with your consultant or join our esthetician lead customer call to learn more.


If your skin isn’t purging, there are basically two other reasons a new product could be breaking you out. The first is that a product is causing a bad reaction. Signs of a reaction include redness, itching, stinging, burning, or rashes. Take note of whether or not your skin feels hot to the touch and whether or not clusters of tiny bumps have appeared that make your skin feel rough to the touch (these can be mistaken for breakouts, but it’s actually dermatitis.)


The second reason a new product could be breaking you out is that it’s too heavy for it and it clogs your pores. If you’re dehydrated, you can try using a heavier moisturizer just a few nights a week until your skin improves. 


COMEDOGENIC RATINGS


Comedogenicity is the tendency of an ingredient or product to clog pores. The root of this word is “comedo.” According to the U.S. National Library of Medicine, comedones are small, flesh-colored, white, or dark bumps that give skin a rough texture. Comedogenic ingredients cause the pores to get filled or "blocked," leading to blackheads, congestion and breakouts over time. When your body produces excess sebum, it mixes with dead skin cells and bacteria to potentially plug up the pore. This results in a pimple — a comedo. 


Skin care products are formulated with a wide range of ingredients that can be classified as comedogenic or non-comedogenic, among other categories. When a customer suffer from breakouts, it's essential that you understand the science behind what's considered comedogenic and what skin care products to avoid. ‘


NOTE Contrary to popular belief, oil dissolves oil, so oils are no necessarily comedogenic. Olivia, our OTP estheticians, also discusses this on many training calls: there is a HUGE difference between using unrefined bioactive oils verus refined oils when it comes to clogging pores. 


These references below were prepared and provided by a fellow consultant and teammate, Gretchen Tseng (IG: @fitquest_nutrition) who breaks down all the OTP products to determine which are non-comedogenic for those that typically suffer from acne to avoid. (NOTE: You can send this to a customer to review. However, Gretchen has asked that you give her credit if you share publicly and to please not replicate her work.)



INGREDIENTS BREAKDOWNS


COSMILE EUROPE is an ingredient database that offers reliable, verified and scientifically supported information on almost 30,000 ingredients used in EU cosmetics to help you understand why certain ingredients are in your cosmetic products and which properties they have: https://cosmileeurope.eu/


To search for a specific ingredient found in products, you can use the SEARCH BAR (magnifying glass at top of screen) on the Oliveda website. Note: Most ingredients will be listed by their scientific name.


OTP PRODUCTS THAT ARE NOT VEGAN:

  • I66 - The Beauty Fountain (collagen from Pata Negras, an Iberico breed of pigs)

  • F65 - Corrective Midnight Elixir (wild caught fish liver)

  • 004 - Dope Your Wrinkles - La Dope Line (wild caught fish liver)

  • F05 - Antioxidant Face Cream (goat milk)

  • F76 - Honey Enzyme Face Mask (honey)

  • F77 - Olive Matcha Face Mask (honey)

  • F84 - Blemish Control Face Mask (honey)


  • Polyphenol Count: A large spectrum of beneficial health properties has been attributed to olive leaves. This study was undertaken to characterize the bioactive compounds of commercial olive leaf extracts and olive leaves and their infusions. High variability of bioactive compounds was found among commercial samples. Polyphenol was detected in a range of 44–108 g kg−1 and 7.5–250 g kg−1 for olive leaves and olive leaf extracts, respectively. The main phenol was oleuropein, representing 74–94% of total phenols. However, only 17–26% of polyphenols were diffused to the aqueous phases when olive leaf infusions were prepared. Triterpenic acids were found in a range of 26–37 g kg−1 in olive leaves, but not detected in the infusions. Hence, the absence of the latter substances and the low oleuropein diffusion in olive leaf infusions make new studies necessary to maximize the presence of these bioactive compounds in the final product.


This study does not pertain specifically to Olive Treep People products but it can be used as a guide when addressing with those interested: https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlehtml/2019/fo/c9fo00698b


  • Collagen Peptides: I66 Beauty Fountain is porcine collagen sourced from Pata Negras, an Iberico breed of pigs that live amongst trees on small family owned farms and they feed on acorns. Pata Negras is like the wagyu beef of pig. One of the best places to source porcine (pig) collagen is the EU. This is because of the strict rules that safeguard the welfare of pigs.

  • Supports Type 1 & 3

  • Read more about porcine collagen peptides here: https://www.rousselot.com/health/media/blog/rediscovering-porcine-collagen


  • Vegan Hylauron: I70 Vegan Hylauron is sourced from fermenting plant proteins


  • Retinol: Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is made from vitamin A.The small molecules that make up retinol go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to your dermis. Once in this middle layer of skin, retinol helps neutralize free radicals. This helps boost the production of elastin and collagen, which creates a “plumping” effect that can reduce the appearance of: fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores. Retinol has an exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface that can help improve texture and tone.


OTP uses THREE different forms of retinol (vitamin A)


  • F82 Green Retinol Face Elixir: sourced from Bakuchiol (plant/vegan) 

  • Contains 2.5% Bakuchiol + 1% Kahai Oil

  • Most gentle form of concentrated vitamin A - good for sensitive skin

  • This is considered a retinol because of the high vitamin A content in the bakuchiol and kahai.

  • PREGNANCY SAFETY: There is limited research on the potential effects of bakuchiol on pregnancy. However, animal studies suggest that bakuchiol may have a protective effect against certain pregnancy-related complications, such as preterm birth and preeclampsia. These findings are promising but need to be confirmed in human studies. One study in particular published in the International Journal of Toxicology in 2020 concluded that bakuchiol is safe for use in cosmetics during pregnancy. The study found that bakuchiol did not cause any adverse effects in pregnant rats or their fetuses. However, more research is needed to confirm the safety of bakuchiol in humans.


  • F65 Corrective Midnight Elixir: sourced from wild-caught fish liver (not vegan)

  • Contains 2% retinol from fish liver + hyaluron + 2.5% Kahai Oil

  • Fish liver oils are known as excellent sources of vitamin A. While it has long been recognized that fish livers contain vitamin A in forms of retinol (ROH) and retinal (RA), some fish synthesize and use a VA-like product (3-hydroxy-retinol; 3OHVA).

  • This form of retinol should NOT be used during the day as it is photosenstive. Apply only at night and be sure to wash face in the morning.


  • F87 Corrective Kahai Elixir: sourced from Cacay nut/tree (plant/vegan)

  • Contains 3.8% Kahai Oil (contains the highest amount of retinol of our products)

  • This is considered a retinol because of the high vitamin A content in the kahai - a natural source of vitamin A (from cold pressing nuts of the cacay tree) and is a powerhouse for brightening dark spots


  • 004 DOPE Your Wrinkles Face Oil Serum

  • Contains retinol from fish liver 

  • Fish liver oils are known as excellent sources of vitamin A. While it has long been recognized that fish livers contain vitamin A in forms of retinol (ROH) and retinal (RA), some fish synthesize and use a VA-like product (3-hydroxy-retinol; 3OHVA).

  • contains almost identical formulation to the corrective midnight elixir BUT combines cannabinoids (hemp) & retinol, arbequina and kahai oil - it is designed to regenerate and firms the skin, reduces wrinkles and supports the daily glow of the ski.

  • This form of retinol should NOT be used during the day as it is photosenstive. Apply only at night and be sure to wash face in the morning.


NOTE: It is recommend that pregnant and/or breastfeeding women consult with their healthcare provider before using any skincare products containing retinol (vitamin A). Retinols are generally not recommended during pregnancy due to their high vitamin A content not being well studied in exposure to fetus. If someone is looking for a good alternative during this time, a good swap for use during pregnancy is the HT + Vitamin C Serum. 


What is the RETINIZATION process?


Yes, it does seem counterintuitive to continue to use a product that causes redness, irritation, flaking, and peeling - because those are all red flags that a product is not working, right? Well, not always with retinoids. 


If your skin is peeling, itching, and dry during your initial weeks of retinoid treatment, it’s actually an indication that the retinoid is working (as long as it isn’t too intense). 


The retinization process is just another word for the adjustment period that your skin goes through when you first start using a retinoid. When you use a retinoid, your skin cells start to behave differently. In order to achieve smoother, brighter, fresher, clearer-looking skin your skin needs to speed up the rate at which it creates new skin cells. So one of the first steps in this retinization process is getting rid of old skin cells from the surface of your skin. Which may cause peeling, flaking, scaling, and dryness. 


The good news is, it’s only temporary. Your skin will likely acclimate to the retinization process over time.


  • Hemp/CBD (La Dope): Our Hemp is sourced from regions in Holland and Switzerland– both having the tightest controls on polutents which is important because Hemp is a detoxifier of the air and often times used as an air purifying plant.

  • We use broad spectrum - so CBD isolate.

  • Our CBD Beauty Molecule contains 1000mg of CBD, 200mg of Hylaron, and it's base is olive leaf elixir containing the supercharged antioxidant hydroxytyrosol. It gives you a kick of clarity from the antioxidants from the hydroxytyrosol amplifying the effects of the CBD itself.

  • Our CBD skincare contains 0.2% also in combination with the olive leaf elixir containing the skin benefits of hydroxytyrosol.



  • AHA: Our AHA concentration is 4.8


NOTE: It is recommend that pregnant and/or breastfeeding women consult with their healthcare provider before using any skincare products containing AHA. AHA in certain concentrations is generally not recommended for use in pregnancy and breastfeeding.


  • Salicylic Acid: The Salicylic acid found in our products is an organic acid found naturally in the bark of the willow tree. It belongs to the BHA (beta-hydroxy acids) family. Salicylic acid can be found in the ingredient lists on our packaging under the name SALICYLIC ACID.


  • Caffeine: None of our products contain caffeine. For instance, even our teas are sourced from Olive Leaf, which contains no caffeine.


  • Alcohol Denat: Denatured alcohol is obtained by fermenting sugar starch (sugar beet or sugar cane) or by synthesis. At Oliveda we do not use synthetically produced alcohol. We use alcohol denatured in our products in a concentration that is not irritating. This is systematically checked for all affected product categories. Denat alcohol is also used in certified organic or natural products for its antimicrobial properties, in conjunction with preservatives approved by organic labels


  • Maltodextrin: Our use of Maltodextrin is 100% plant based, derived from potatoes (gluten-free) and must be tested for toxicity before it can be used as maltodextrin. Only then can it be used. Maltodextrin works synergistically with our different raw materials like honey and the olive leaf to improve application. Improves anti-aging activity, reduce skin irritation and generally keep the skin in good condition.


  • Wheat/Gluten: There are four products that someone could think contain wheat but they DO NOT contain gluten according to both our team’s research AND the Oliveda website.


  • Linalool: With this particular ingredient it comes down to synthetic vs natural and refined vs unrefined. All of our ingredients are unrefined, non-synthetic and anti-inflammatory. For example: Linalool as a natural compound of an organic essential oil may provide anti-inflammatory effects, but the synthetic version of the same name can possibly lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions


  • Propylene Glycol: Sourced from plant based glycerin. Glycerine is found in the protective acid mantle of the skin. It is part of its’ Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which helps it retain essential moisture. It also helps maintain the barrier function of the skin, protecting it from drying and irritation.


  • Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (in our body balms): The form being used is SQUALANE - a master moisturizer that deserves a special shoutout. Among the many benefits of squalane, the experts we consulted agree that it’s both super hydrating and safe to use on even the most sensitive skin. 


  • What is squalane oil, exactly? There’s a difference between squalene and squalane—aside from the spelling. The former, with an e, is naturally produced by the body’s sebaceous glands and, to get more specific, is part of sebum. Squalene is also commonly found in shark livers, it’s true, but most major companies now get it from plant sources like olive oil. Okay, so what about squalane (with an a)? It’s just squalene, but hydrogenated—meaning manufacturers add hydrogen atoms to make it more shelf-stable and therefore easier to use in skin care products. If you’re dealing with dryness, squalane is your gal. One of its most notable (and well-researched) benefits is strengthening your skin barrier. It hydrates the skin by acting as an emollient, meaning it helps trap water in. More technically, squalene (or squalane) can squeeze into the spaces between skin cells and strengthen that outer layer, making it difficult for water to evaporate. Another notable perk: Squalane isn’t comedogenic (pore-clogging)—making it a great lightweight option for anyone who hates greasiness.


The field has requested that the INCI be updated in future runs of labels to note squalane instead of hydrogenated vegetable oil.


Of course, anyone concerned about this, it is encouraged that they do their own research, consult their personal provider or conduct a product patch test.


The four products are:

  • H22 Hair & Scalp Treatment: “triticum vulgare (wheat) bran extract”

  • F25 Neroli Face Oil Serum: “triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil”

  • F26 Rose Face Oil Serum: “triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil”

  • F27 Jasmine Face Oil Serum

The website specifies that all four ARE gluten free. 


FYI: Wheat germ oil, wheat bran extract, tocopherol (Vitamin E) and alcohol are wheat-derived ingredients that do NOT contain gluten.


  • Carrageenan: Cosmetic companies are allowed to use only food-grade carrageenan in their products. However, degraded carrageenan is not allowed. Carrageenan is made from parts of various red seaweeds in the Rhodophyceae family. It is noted that carrageenan is too large a molecule to be absorbed through the skin, so you don't have to worry about it getting into your bloodstream and affecting your gut. There are some better and worse variations of seaweed extract that make up carrageenan and there is a vast difference of internal vs external use just like with PUFAS.

 

  • Sodium Benzonate (Preservative): Sodium benzoate prevents bacteria and fungi from growing in products. The mechanism starts with the absorption of benzoic acid into the cell of a microorganism. If the pH inside the cell falls to 5 or lower, the anaerobic fermentation of glucose through an enzyme called phosphofructokinase decreases sharply. This inhibits the growth and survival of microorganisms that can cause products to spoil.



The concern with sodium benzoate is when it is combined with vitamin C (ascorbic acid), a chemical reaction occurs that forms benzene. Benzene has been identified as a carcinogen or cancer-causing ingredient. However, benzene does not form at all if you use products with a very high concentration of vitamin C and a low concentration of sodium benzoate. This is because higher amounts of vitamin C cause it to act as a free radical inhibitor instead of reacting with sodium benzoate. In addition, products formulated with a pH of 3 or above are safer than those with a pH of 2 or less. And above a pH of 7, no benzene forms at all. Lastly, protecting products from light or heat exposure can limit the chances of benzene formation. Manufacturers that follow safe practices can effectively prevent benzene in their products.


We do not use ascorbic acid, our ingestibles contain high concentrations of Camu Camu - ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a much different ingredient. 


Products with Sodium Benzonate: I70 Beauty Molecule, 001 Internal Hemp Beauty Molecule


  • Potassium Sorbate (Preservative): A natural compound found in a multitude of fruits and vegetables, typical a natural derivative sourced from Mountain Ash Berries, and not synthetically derived. However, it is worth mentioning that even the synthetic version is GRAS (official classification of Generally Recognized As Safe) A food grade designation by every government in the world, and has been subjected to any number of double-blind studies. Today it is considered one of the safest food preservatives, and is found in almost every bit of commercially sold cheese, wine etc. Even the organic versions.



Products with Potassium Sorbate: I01 ORAC & Camu Camu, I66 Beauty Fountain, 001 Internal Hemp Beauty Molecule, 005 DOPE your immune power INTERNAL ELIXIR


  • UV FILTERS/SPF: Per Thomas,the F42 Corrective Face Cream has an sun protection of 15 due to the bioactive olive leaf elixir and cold pressed arbequina oil content which provides a natural sun protection between 4-5. [See the Regulation below for explanation on approved UV filters in these 4-5 categories.] 


In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223], which applies to the entire EU market, UV filters are defined as substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin against certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. Annex VI of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used in cosmetic products as UV filters. In this so-called positive list of the UV filters maximum concentrations are prescribed for the use of these substances in cosmetic products and, if necessary, additional conditions for use are defined.


Prior to their approval in Annex VI, UV filters are examined selectively for their toxicological safety and subjected to comprehensive tests. The manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies. Moreover, the approved filters are re-assessed, if necessary on the basis of new scientific findings and in the event of possible conspicuous findings in market observation and the list is updated accordingly.


  • Homosalate (UV absorder): Homosalate is a soluble organic UV-B filter. It absorbs UV-B radiation from approximately 280 to 320 nm. The maximum concentration of homosalate is 7.3 %.According to in vitro studies, Homosalate appears to affect the hormonal balance of estrogens and androgens. The European experts have decided to re-examine the potential endocrine activity of 28 substances suspected of being endocrine disruptors and homosalate was part of this re-evaluation. The analysed data provide some indications of potential endocrine effects but there is no solid in vivo evidence of these activities; the level of evidence is therefore insufficient to consider Homosalate an endocrine disruptor (1).


Current data do not show an endocrine disrupting effect in vivo. The use of homosalate in cosmetic products is therefore considered to be safe for human health, with well-regulated concentrations in face products (2). In view of the health risks associated with sun exposure (photoaging, skin cancer), the use of sunscreen products and/or UV-protective clothing remains essential.


As far as the environment is concerned, homosalate is rapidly biodegradable and does not accumulate in fish.


(1) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety: SCCS/1622/20

(2) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety: Opinion SCCS/1638/21


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